



I used the angle grinder to cut off some odd brackets on the rear of the frame that were interfering with the camper. Compare with this to see the difference.




Got these tail lights recently, so the truck can be street legal. The metal mounting bracket is just temporary, once the camper walls are finished the lights will go into them. They install pretty easy, the rubber grommet snaps into the metal bracket, then the light snaps into the rubber grommet. It’s a little hard to get it in place, but once there it’s solid. Here are some similar lights on Amazon.
I decided to go with 18 and 20 gauge steel sheet for the entire bottom side of the camper box. It’s a bit heavy unfortunately, but it’s pretty easy to deal with (no glue or fasteners, just weld it on) and relatively inexpensive ($28 for a 4x8’ sheet at the moment). For this back section the 4x8 sheet is pretty close to the right size so I will trim the edges after it’s welded on, rather than cutting it to size before hand.
Picked up these hydraulic “Hijacker” camper jacks off Craigslist recently ($60 used, not bad!). I needed a way to lift the camper off the truck to finish up some of the welding on the bottom, and to paint the camper. They work great. Thought about getting some tripod jacks like these but decided to go with something more permanent.
I think I will also use the jacks to level and stabilize the camper when it’s parked. They’re easily removable so they can be stowed while driving.
All the fuel hoses hooked up on the new (well used actually) 40 gallon fuel tank. I ended up having to put screw type hose clamps on after this photo due to some air leaks preventing the truck from starting. The hose sizes are 3/8 and 7/16, which I don’t think are perfect matches to the metric tube sizes on the truck, thus the need for some extra clamping force.
back to working on the camper. drilling holes to mount the new fuel tank, using a milwaukee electromagnetic drill press. it clamps on to the frame using an electromagnet. cool!